26 December 2012

Rolfs Kök

I have probably visit Rolfs Kök more times than any other restaurant in Stockholm so it's about time to give it a small review.
This place is all about simple, well cooked food with dishes influenced by Swedish and Southern European cuisine and along with an amazing wine list and a lovely, laid back atmosphere and great service it can't go wrong.

Unlike most of the good restaurant in Stockholm, Rolf's Kök is actually opened on Sundays which is great. So when I and my cousin decided to go for an early Sunday dinner the choice was easy.

I started with a small pint of Brooklyn Lager to quench my thirst while browsing the menu.
Their classic dishes always are tempting but we decided to try something new this time.
I continued with beer for the starters and chose The American Dream from the fantastic Danish brewery Mikkeller. I just love this beer with its rich, fruity flavors of passion fruit and pineapple backed up with a pleasant bitterness. Mikkeller also makes signature beers for the famous restaurant Noma in Copenhagen.

We started with a plate of pata negra de Salamanca. This fantastic ham is delicious. What more to say?

Next up, razor clams with sauce vierge. Topped with the fresh herbs and tomato it was a good dish but nothing special.

2008 Central Coast Syrah from Piedrasassi in California had now been decanted for an hour and was poured in our big Riedel glasses. This 100% Syrah uses fruit picked from three vineyards; White Hawk, Rim Rock and Harrison-Clarke. Such a pure, clean wine. Not big and overblown, just elegant with a long, long finish and super silky tannins and a match in heaven with our main course.

Roast of suckling lamb from Zamora topped with garlic bread croutons and served with a lamb and olive jus. On the side; bean purée with baked tomatoes, beans, snails and more of that lovely jus. Wow, unbelievably good.

The restaurateurs; Klas Ljungquist and Johan Jureskog who has run this restaurant for almost ten year also has a second restaurant, AG, which I also highly recommended, especially if you want some high quality steaks.


20 December 2012


This was about to be the third time I visit this restaurant. Djuret means "the animal" and the theme of the restaurant is to serve different parts from one animal and with that offer a selection of exclusive wines from an area that matches the food. These "theme" wines are always priced extremely low which is obviously an welcoming touch. This evening the wine theme was Côte-Rôtie and to give you an example; a bottle of 2005 La Turque from Guigal could be ordered for around 500 US dollars, must be the cheapest price on the planet? If you don't like Côte-Rôtie (who doesn't?) or you like me just feel for something else there's one of Sweden's biggest and best wine list to immerse in.
The meat for this month was not one, but three different ones; elk calf, wild boar and wild duck. They also have few a classics on the menu that shouldn't be missed.

We started off in the bar with a glass of Thiénot Brut Champagne and deep fried pork rinds with chili mayonnaise. Salt, crispy and fat, what a yummy start and the freshness from the champagne made it even better.

My dear friend and previous colleague David Svensson is now working at Djuret and he showed us to the table. Having this amazing sommelier around, I knew we were in good hands.

The ambience is very warm and cozy and I really like the old meat grinders they've transformed into lamps. The dark light isn't very favorable if you want to take pictures of the dishes, which you can see on the grainy photos below.

When seated we started off with 2007 Saint-Véran "En Crèches" from Daniel et Martine Barraud. An excellent, creamy and perfectly balanced white burgundy that caressed our mouths.

With the fantastic bread we got served butter, pork rillette and a lovely rooster liver pâté topped with figs and gherkins.

Next dish was so seductive with its rich, fatty flavors; a marrowbone served with bleak roe, pickled onions and newly toasted brioche. This marrowbone serving was ten times better than the classic "marrow bone with parsley salad" I was served at the 1 Michelin starred restaurant St. John in London. Don't get we wrong, that was a great dish too.
Fish eggs in general is not the best buddy with dry wine as its rich content of umami makes the wine taste metallic and bitter but if you round off these flavor with something creamy like bone marrow this will not be an issue. My god what a great combination and what a superb dish.

We continued with the Saint-Véran for the next two dishes but we also got a glass each of 2011 Riesling Trocken from Wittmann in Rheinhessen, Germany. This is truly an amazing entry level Riesling with an explosive, aromatic nose of peaches, white flowers and hand lotion. What a great palate cleanser!

On the table we got served two dishes; tartar of elk calf with pickled chanterelles, roasted shallot cream and Kavring bread croutons. The meat was a bit grainy and not a favorite. Maybe elk isn't the best meat to make tartar of?

In a totally different league was the other plate; confit baked cheek of wild boar, smoke baked heart of the elk calf and a terrine of the wild duck liver. This was served with variations of celeriac, grated truffle from Gotland and topped with an fantastic oxtail consommé. Wow, so yummy and the broth tasted like something cooked by my grandmother when I, as a kid, spent my summers in Tuscany.

With our next two servings of game I choose a bottle of 2006 Pagos Viejos from the great producer Artadi in Rioja, Spain. The wine is made from Tempranillo grapes from 50 years old vines that got a treatment in 16 months all new oak barrels. An elegant, serious wine with deep fruit and balanced tannins.

As main I ordered a variations of wild boar. The neck as sausage and the shoulder braised in tomatoes, game stock and white wine. This was served with Borlotti beans, a lemony polenta and gremolata. Tasty dish but a bit anonymous, especially when compared to the fantastic wild duck dish my friend ordered.

Confit of the leg and fried breast of the wild duck served with pickled Savoy cabbage, Jerusalem artichoke croquet, duck liver, chestnuts, apricots and wild duck jus. A magnificent dish, that had everything.

Dessert was excluded after this massive dinner. Instead we went for a guided tour in the wine cellar with David before we rolled out from the restaurant to the snowy, narrow street of Gamla Stan and walked home with a big smile on our faces.

15 December 2012


I love December and the good and warm feeling of Christmas.
The obvious beverage during this cold and snowy month in Sweden is Glögg which is also known as mulled wine, vin chaud or glühwine in other parts of Europe.
It is basically a warm, spiced wine. The variations are as many as people making it but here comes my own recipe;


750ml of fruity red wine
3 cinnamon sticks
2 tsp cardamom
2 tsp dried ginger
8 cloves
6 black peppercorns
2 bitter orange peels
7 tbsp brown sugar
100ml concentrated black currant juice
100ml spirit (vodka, cognac, rum or whiskey)


Place all the spices and the sugar with 200ml of the wine in a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Immediately remove the drink from the stove to avoid the alcohol from evaporate and add the rest of the wine plus the spirit and the concentrated black currant juice.
When cooled down, place the sauce pan in the fridge to let the spices infuse in the liquid for a night or two. Strain away all the seasoning.

Place a few raisins and almonds in small, espresso-sized cup before you top up the warm drink.
Served with ginger bread cookies, I'm sure this will warm up your body and get you in a great Christmas mood.


05 December 2012

19 Glas

Back for a quick visit in Stockholm. Covered in snow, the capital is truly beautiful at this time of the year, especially Gamla Stan with its old houses, narrow alleys and wonderful atmosphere. This part of the city used to be filled with sad, touristic restaurants serving poor pasta and bad version of classic Swedish dishes. But since a few years, Gamla Stan is transformed to a true gastronomic centre with restaurant like Frantzén/Lindeberg, Pubologi and Djuret. Another one is 19 Glas and here I decided to go for a quick lunch with my mom.
They only serve one dish each lunch so there is no problem when it comes to deciding what to eat. This could not be said when it comes to the wine list though since they serve a majority of their wines by the glass. A glass of easy drinking Le Volte from Tenuta dell'Ornellaia was my choice and matched well with the food.
First we got served a home made sausage of rabbit and duck topped with harissa. Lovely levain bread was served with a tasty, nutty brown butter.

The main course was slow braised leg of lamb served with tomato, caramelized onions and spinach. Simple and very tasty.

On the negative side it was freezing cold in the restaurant when we were there which was ok for a quick lunch but I wouldn't stand sitting here for a two hours dinner. Still I really recommend you to try this little gem, especially if you like wine.